The Joy of Japanese Sewing

Christmas Dresses

2011-12-26T12:15:00.000-08:00

Pattern: millimilli

Size: 110 cm, 120 cm

Fabric: textured cotton knit from Haberman's

This is the same pattern I used for Christmas two years ago, it is a simple joy to sew up and so comfortable to wear. I did not have enough fabric so the sleeves were slightly flared then cropped. Also, this knit was a lot more loose and drapey than I expected so I added a back tie (there was not enough fabric left for a bow). The hardest part of this dress is sourcing just the right fabric......I'm starting now to look to make them again for Easter.

Halloween

2011-10-31T21:10:00.000-07:00

Asha was a journalist. A french kind. I made the jacket as you saw in the previous post. She made the "press" tag. Bryan generously gave her several vintage cameras to complete the look.

Jerome was the Grim Reaper. Although I didn't use any Japanese pattern to make it, I thought I will add it just because. I made a simple tube skirt with a draw string, a top on a bias, and attatched a hood. Scott's sister, Karine, gave me some black remnants from her project, so there was no cost. Because I draped everything straight on the body, the fit was great. Jerome made the sythe with card board, aluminum foil, and duck tape.

Cropped jacket for Asha

2011-10-31T16:46:00.000-07:00

Last year I made a goal to challenge myself physically and see if I could get back in shape before I turn forty. I am not going to bore you with the details here, but let's just say it has been a journey. As it turns out, I am not good at managing two projects, and sewing had been put on hold... until this past week.

In August we took a trip to Banff and surrounding national parks as a family. On one of the harder hikes, I was trying to make conversations with Asha in a desparate attempt to distract myself from the huff and puff. The topic of Haloween costumes came up. Before I knew it, I had committed to sewing Asha a jacket. Who knew being in nature with people you love could make you do such things.

Fast forward to last week...

I turned to my new sewing book I got from Japan titled "Sweet Girls Clothes" and choose style V in size 140. Here are the measurements the book gives for size 140. Height 140cm, chest 68cm, waist 57cm, hip 73cm. I think it is a smaller size 10. This is what the cover of the book looks like.

I used denim from my stash.

To minimize bulk, and to keep the project interesting, I tried my hand at a Hong Kong seam. Changing the thread back and forth got tedious, but I love the end result.

A picture of the jacket complete with the rest of her Halloween costume is coming in the next post.

Birthday Dress

2011-08-18T06:34:00.000-07:00

Book: Sweet Girl Clothes

Size: 120 cm

Fabric: Cotton calico and white cotton pique for the yoke

This dress was a gift for my daughter's 6th birthday. Just this summer we moved to a farm so I've been a bit busy for sewing, but she had to have a dress dress for her birthday and I had to try out this new book.

I don't have my sewing room set up yet so most of it was done on the living room floor with young children crawling and running around and a on top of the workings. This does not make for very accurate sewing or tracing. It turns out I made a large error in tracing the wrong neckline for the dress, I traced style S not D. I did correct the mistake but it did cost me some time. Speaking of time, I thought this dress would be a quick sew-up but I was wrong. I had it cut out the night before and was hoping to sew it up in just two hours in the morning, it actually took me about 4 1/2 hours and kind of wish I spent more time playing with my daughter on her birthday than sewing. But she was happy with the product and wore it two days in a row.

I had originally planned to use a brown and white cotton pin stripe but the barely 6 year old girl objected. I've learned to sew to their liking otherwise I waste both time and resources, she picked out the yellow calico from my stash and we both were pleased with the result.

This dress is two pieces, a straight line dress with yoke and skirt apron on top. We used fabric covered buttons for the yoke. I can't say it was a joy to sew up with limited time, but it was a joy to see her celebrating in the finished product. I'm sure this dress will see many days of wear!

Sweet Girl Clothes

2011-08-18T06:02:00.000-07:00

Marie' went to Japan this summer and came back with this book. Just the thing I needed to get back at sewing "sweet girl clothes".

Sizes: 100cm - 140cm (plus a few styles for an adult)

This is a great book with styles moving from summer into Fall. Thanks Marie'!

Baby robe and pants

2011-01-27T03:43:00.000-08:00

Book: Lockstitch baby, style #7 & #15

Size: 70 cm

Fabric: Knit

What I love most about Japanese patterns is the simplicity of the design and construction. The fit is usually good but in the case of the robe I believe it was a bit off so I had to make some adjustments. Again I discovered that in these books any garment not photographed on a live human tends to have an fitting issue. Here is what it looked like before the adjustment:

I believe it was way too wide. Since I decided to line to the edge I simply top stitched through both layers and made a casing for elastic to pull in the sides. And I think it looks quite pretty now. Here is the back:

Since I made the pants before I know they are a great fit. I just had trouble with the hemline stretching out a bit. Also I forgot to reinforce the snaps and had to unpick them and fuse some squares of fabric underneath to prevent the snaps from tearing out of the knit.

And because I love cute Japanese design I had to throw in some cute little Japanese tights in with the outfit.

Easy little jacket

2011-01-23T20:50:00.000-08:00

This jacket was inspired by one of our favorite Japanese pattern designers Iroha. Unfortunately she has shut down her shop and is no longer offering patterns. The pattern is really quite simple though, just two rectangles.

Marie' and I will work on our own instructions and recommended measurements if there is interest here.

This one was made out of a cotton/Lycra interlock from Yellow Bird Fabrics in Salt Lake City. I'm offering a bunch of photos here so you can see how the jacket changes to the shape of the wearer (please excuse the awkward modeling and photo taking skills of my 5 and 7 years olds).

Back:

Side:

Neckline:

Drapes over the shoulder:

Closure:

Would love to make another one out of this from Emmaonesock.

Felt Food

2011-01-14T13:55:00.000-08:00

Book: Felt fruit and vegetables book

This was fun! Most of it was actually constructed on the sewing machine using a blanket stitch. The grapes were done mostly by hand by my 7 year old. And the banana is so cute because it peels and actually comes out.....but I'm not showing that because the kids say it doesn't look really yummy like that.

We didn't use a pattern for the sandwich supplies below. We just looked at the picture for the general idea. The bread is fuzzier because we used the cheap felt from Jo-Ann fabrics, the rest was nice thick Japanese felt.

And the same for breakfast, we just cut free hand. The bacon got crinkly from a piece of elastic inside.

This project was not as painful as my first attempt last year.

Felt Animals

2011-01-13T07:31:00.000-08:00

I purchased this kit from Superbuzzy for my 5 year old daughter to make for her younger sister. It far beyond her skill level but she enjoyed the stuffing and beading.

It took a while to get my stitches neat and even. I also used the blanket stitch on my machine for the long runs. Despite my sloppines they turned out so cute! More photos here. The kit was $25 but we will use the leftover felt cutouts as a pattern for more deer.

Pajamas for boys

2011-01-12T09:49:00.000-08:00

Book: Children's lockstitch

Fabric: Various knits from the Fabric Fairy

Sizes: 90, 120, 140, 150 (not included I graded up)

These were quick to sew up but I can't say the pattern was a sure go like most Japanese patterns. Maybe I should have gone down a size for each child but I found the crotch lengths too long in addition to both the sleeve length and shirt length.

It may be also I'm used to more fitted knit pajamas, the boys aren't complaining though, in fact I think they found them more comfortable.

T-shir resizing - boxy to girly

2010-09-09T09:19:00.000-07:00

At the end of the school year, Jerome brought home a men's size small t-shirt from the D.A.R.E. graduation, that he had no interest in wearing. Asha said she wanted it, so it got dropped in the resize pile. Fast forward to this week, and I realized that Jerome and Asha could use some t-shirts. I dug in the resize pile and came up with a few things.

This one came out the best because the sleeves were wide enough for some puffy details. I used a Milimili pattern in size 140. More shirts using this pattern here and here.

T-shirt Romper

2010-06-24T20:53:00.000-07:00

Book: Lockstitch Baby
Size: 70 cm
Fabric: size L men's T

This one also started out as a T-shirt but this baby needed something cool for summer. The romper was not as quick as the pull on pants but I'm very happy with the slim fit. The placket is a bit messy and at that point I was kind of wishing I could read Japanese but got through it. This is a good pattern for refashioning big T's into baby stuff.

And if you want to match your baby, here's a great tutorial for re-fashioning a large boxy T for yourself.

T-shirt pants for Babies

2010-06-24T20:38:00.000-07:00

Book: Lockstitch Baby, Style #7
Size: 70 cm
Fabric: Children's knit T

This is going to be my new favorite book! There is nothing more satisfying than a quick sewing project when you have a little one to care for.

I also love the fit. Sure these are simple enough to draft on your own but I don't have time for even that! They fit great over a puffy cloth diaper so I know I'll soon be making piles of these. Time to start picking up even more old T's.

Knit Jacket

2010-05-01T20:00:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Shell Button
Size: Small (with alteration)
Fabric: Cotton quilted knit with bamboo lining

I finally got to sewing! This jacket is now off season but it was on the top of my pile so it had to get done. I love that it is super comfy and a step up from a hooded sweatshirt.

Keep in mind that this pattern is designed for a Japanese woman, you can see how slender the model is above.

Since I am nursing my 7th baby there was obvious need for pattern alteration. I drafted size small because my shoulders are narrow and just added width and length to the bust line with an additional 1" down the side seams for my hips. I originally planned to sew darts but decided since I was using a knit I could just ease the excess in.

I especially love the antique metal snaps - that made a quick finish instead of having to do buttonholes.

I also probably won't attempt anymore adult Japanese patterns until I lose some of this baby weight so stay tuned for some Spring sewing for little girls.

Oh the Joy of a new Book

2010-03-18T19:09:00.000-07:00

Look what was delivered to me this afternoon - the newest book from one of our favorite designers. Here is a peek at what's inside. Of course I want to make them all!

Customer Uploads

2010-03-01T14:03:00.000-08:00

A lot of Japanese online stores have a place they call "gallery" or "BBS", where customers can upload their creations made with their fabric or patterns. I've gone through my bookmarks and made a list of links here. Click away and enjoy! If you know any I didn't mention here, please share it in the comment section, so Alison and I can go check it out!

HARU (Pages take a while to upload. Be patient.)

http://9028.teacup.com/2739haru/bbs

Solei

http://bbs10.as.wakwak.ne.jp/bbs.cgi?id=41460

Check and Stripe

http://bbs.as.wakwak.ne.jp/bbs.cgi?id=1603

Couleure

http://bbs6.as.wakwak.ne.jp/bbs.cgi?id=120303

Slowboat

http://www.play21.jp/bbs/slowboat/index.html

*iroha*

http://bbs2.as.wakwak.ne.jp/bbs.cgi?id=58627&key=irohabbs168

Milimili

http://bbs3.sekkaku.net/bbs/milimili.html

Hibi+ (This one is a little slow, too.)

http://mb1.airbbs.net/bbs/index.php?usid=banira1225

Petit etalage

http://www2.rocketbbs.com/11/bbs.cgi?id=ninana

*K's Bam Boo*

http://ksbamboo.web.infoseek.co.jp/gallery-2007.html

Pattern Label

http://0bbs.jp/pattern-label/

Polka drops

http://www.polkadrops.com/category/bbs.htm

Candy Floss

http://www5b.biglobe.ne.jp/~ange-s/garally/ga_top.html

Recherche

http://bbs2.as.wakwak.ne.jp/bbs.cgi?id=58069

Lilla Blomma

http://bbs4.as.wakwak.ne.jp/bbs.cgi?id=220331

whirlygiggles baby girl quilt

2010-03-01T13:01:00.000-08:00

Remember the quilting fabric I got in Japan last summer? I used the red, pink, and yellow tones, and came up with this baby quilt.

Having a hard time parting with it, as usual.

Easy Summer Dress

2010-02-23T21:05:00.000-08:00

To kick off the winter blues, I have started sewing summer clothes.

Pattern: Style 114 of May 2009 Burda Magazine

First I made a muslin with a cotton poplin from my stash. The sizing turned out perfect, and the fabric turned out really cute for $1/yard, so I decided to finish it up.

The fabric I used for the actual dress came from an online store in Japan called Soleil. It is a herringbone cotton with a gauzy texture. Everything is in Japanese on the store site, but you can click around to see what they carry. They have nice linen, double gauze, knit, among others. There is also a "gallery" where customers can upload pictures of what they made with what they have purchased from the store here. I get a lot of inspiration and ideas there, and also have a better feel of what the fabric might look like. It is a great place to find new blogs to follow also. If you see anything you like, click on the house shaped logo on the upper right corner, and it will take you to their blogs.

Itching to sew

2010-02-21T07:02:00.000-08:00

My baby is 5 weeks old today! I'm starting to feel a bit more normal but unfortunately I can't sew one handed like I can type.

Marie' is in the works of many great sewing projects but all I can do at this point is plan - which I do in the middle of the night while I'm up nursing. Every time I call her I hear the sewing machine buzzing and I get a bit jealous - go Marie!

But spring is creeping up on us so this year's Easter dresses will have to be very simple (although I plan to make them full enough to wear with last year's puffy slips) .

Meanwhile I'll be scrolling through this site for some ideas on nursing wear - thanks Marie' for sending me the link.

Wish me sleep!

Gathered camisole

2010-02-09T01:20:00.000-08:00

Another gathered camisole (the first one posted here.) I cut up my tunic. It was one of those "I will wear this when I loose weight" purchases. Now, two kids later, I would be happy if I could go back to the size I was then, and the tunic had to find a better purpose. I kept the side seams and bottom hem intact, so it ended up being a quick and fun project.

Pattern: Everyday Girl Clothes from Pattern Label

I graded up to size 130

Big box of fabric and goodies

2010-01-14T16:52:00.000-08:00

Marie' just got back from her sister's wedding in Japan. For months leading up to it we've been carefully planning online orders of fabric and patterns that would only ship within Japan. What a super friend she was to make so much room for me in her suitcase! And her sister was just as kind to go through the hassle of ordering it all at the same time as planning a wedding.

The fabrics themselves don't look so spectacular in the photo but they have a beautiful buttery feel that will certainly be a joy to sew and wear. Included in this pile are the following fabrics: triple gauze, double gauze, lawn, linen cotton blends and quilted knit.

The patterns are from a company called shell button and I'll have to wait for Marie' to share the links because I have a whole bookmark folder full of Japanese sites that I can't make sense of.

But my goal this year is to do more adult sewing so I ordered these three for myself (quilted jacket, empire knit dress, and button up shirt dress) - I will post them after I have lost baby weight and found time for proper fitting and sewing. That means I'll be lucky to have them ready to post before 2011.

Felt Fruit

2010-01-14T01:43:00.001-08:00

Book: Felt Fruit and Vegetables

If you can't tell from the picture here is one tomato and one apple. With the tiny hand blanket stitching they took a long time to finish - I started them almost a year ago but was never in the mood. Late pregnancy/ nesting urge got me to finally finish them and I'm happy I did. Once things settle down a bit after the baby I hope to make more but instead on the machine. The leaves of the tomato were done on the machine but you can see it doesn't look as clean.

Also, if you look closely you will notice the apple has a fuzzier texture. That is because that felt was from JoAnn's where as the tomato was cut from some special felt Marie's mom sent from Japan - it is so much nicer! I recommend splurging on the nice felt (you can find it here or here) if you plan on hand sewing because it feels better in your hand. I will use the cheap stuff from JoAnn's as I experiment.

If you look even closer you will notice the fruit are resting on my very pregnant belly - a perfect table top!

Knit collared dresses

2009-12-20T16:42:00.003-08:00

Pattern: millimilli

Size: 100 cm, 110 cm

Fabric: Eileen Fisher cotton/Lycra tweed knit from Emmaonesock

I wasn't up for sewing up anything fancy this Christmas so I gave this pattern a try. I'm glad I did because these were very simple and quick to sew. The girls wore them to church today and will also wear them Christmas eve. I love that they can pull them over their heads themselves, they'll run through the washer and I won't have to iron them.

Hibi+ Turtle hood Pullover

2009-12-15T12:50:00.000-08:00

My baby sister is getting married, and I am leaving on Thursday for Tokyo to attend the wedding.

Alison suggested I sew something comfortable to wear on the plane, and this is what I came up with. It feels like pajamas, and that is just what I will need on the 11 hour flight.

pattern: Turtle Hood pullover from hibi+

size: medium (I am a large on the Japanese size chart, an 8 in the US, but this medium fits OK as long as I don't wear anything bulky underneath. The sleeves could have been a little longer.

fabric: juicy Couture cable grey velour from Fabric Fairy

Hibi Hoodie

2009-12-15T11:25:00.003-08:00

Pattern: Hibi

Size: Medium

Fabric: refashioned from two sweaters from Salvation Army

Hibi is another great Japanese pattern company. Just like millimilli however, they only sell within Japan, they sell out quickly and their shop is only open sporadically. We were lucky to get this one pattern and I'm now wishing we had the little girl size (looks like I'll have to draft it myself).

Maire' and I both made these yesterday and it was a quick satisfying project. I didn't have any great sweatshirt fleece on hand and am still waiting for some sample swatches but after seeing Marie's yesterday I had to try it. What I did have on hand was a pile of sweaters intended for refashioning.

This pattern actually takes 2 1/2 yards of fabric so I had to get creative with two sweaters. I do like the contrast of the cable cuffs and hood but admit it may be too heavy for the hood. Also, I wish there were enough scraps to add the pockets like the original pattern suggests and I could have definitely used some extra length considering this barely fits over my very round belly.

This will be great to wear just after the baby is born and it being winter I'm even considering making a dress version with a long placket that would allow easy nursing. Still waiting on the swatches for that though.

millimilli

2009-12-12T05:43:00.000-08:00

Browsing through multiple Japanese sewing blogs Marie' discovered the online pattern shop millimilli. She definitely has the advantage of actually being able to read the blogs whereas I can only look.

These patterns have been highly recommended by other sewers for their excellent fit. Simple to sew, millimilli offers clean lines and understated design for both children and moms. Their knit patterns are especially popular and a staple to any pattern collection.

Marie' already made this shirt from millimilli and I am now working on some basic knit dresses. In addition to the knit dress and basic T-shirt we also have the basic raglan sleeve T-shirt pattern. Their patterns come in a range of sizes so we will be sure to post many throughout the next sewing season.

The challenge with this pattern company is as of now they only ship in Japan. The other problem is their patterns are frequently out of stock. So although we love to share our sources this is a difficult pattern to access outside of Japan. If that changes we will be quick to update.

Winter coat for Kai - Oliver and S, school days jacket and coat

2009-12-08T15:07:00.000-08:00

Although Oliver and S isn't a Japanese company, Alison and I thought that people who follow this blog would appreciate their patterns.

Kai is so happy he finally got his coat that he wore it all day until dinner time. He says it is the fuzziness of the lining.

Pattern: Oliver and S, school days jacket and coat (link to the pattern here)

Their blog had great fabric suggestions for their patterns. I have bought two more patterns from them, and can't wait to get to work. Here is a Flickr group where you can see what other people have made using Oliver and S patterns.

Size: 4

Kai took after his father, and is very lean. Although he will be five in May, the measurements suggested I make a four. I am glad I did.

Fabric:

outer- thick dark denim with some stretch (Wal-mart, $3/yard) I should have bought the rest of the bolt. It was sold out when I went back. That was after I washed what I bought and decided I really liked it.

lining- thick fleece (the kind you see on sporty pull-overs) This one came from a fleece warehouse in seattle that has since closed. Since I wasn't sewing much back when Scott's sister took me there, I just picked up a kitchen garbage bag sized remnant bag for $10. I am proud to say that the piece I used for this coat was the last piece of that bag, and now it is all gone. It only took me 11 years and 9 moves.

lining for the hood- fine wale corduroy from the RS closet clean-out.

Christmas Dress

2009-12-07T14:38:00.000-08:00

This dress had been on my sewing planner since summer, but I didn't get to it until the day before the first Sunday of December. Talk about procrastination, and thank goodness it was a quick project.

What makes this dress unique is cutting the fabric on the bias. I love the slimming silhouette and how it moves. The book tells you to roughly cut the main pieces out, hang them on a hanger over-night to let it stretch on the bias, and then cut it out exactly. Since I didn't have that kind of time, I did 4 hours. The wool stretched another third of an inch while Asha was wearing it, and covered the ruffles more than my liking. I am going to take the blind stitches out and hem it shorter for the full effect.

Pattern: Style D-1 of "Concert and recital dresses for sisters" (link here)

Size: 130

Fabric: The grey wool came from the thrift store. You can't beat $2.37 for 3 yards. The black satin used for the lining and the ruffles came from Joann's.

turtle neck and Camisole

2009-11-09T23:05:00.001-08:00

This is the closest to the true color.

Fabric:

turtle neck - premium stretch cotton knit from fabric.com (10% spandex)

camisole - Liberty Tana Lawn

Patterns:

Everyday Girl Clothes from Pattern Label

I graded up to size 130

This turtle neck shirt pattern gets rave reviews from Japanese sewers for it's slimming shape.

winter jacket

2009-10-21T16:31:00.001-07:00

Quinn had a Gap corduroy coat last year that I loved. It could be dressed down for jeans, while also looking great with church clothes. Now that he has grown out of it, it was time to sew one up for this year. I started with suiting fabric I had bought when Jerome was little. I was pleased that I still liked it after 9 years, while fashion trends have changed quite a bit. I added a lining of sweatshirt fabric for warmth. I made a label out of the tiger in a Echino scrap fabric Alison had given me. It pulled all the colors together and gave the jacket that little detail I was after.

The mustard corduroy came from what was left of Asha's bubble skirt, and the sweatshirt fabric for the lining came from Scott's old Cougar sweatshirt.

Pattern: Toddler Boy and Girl Clothes

Size: 90

Wool Flower

2009-10-20T17:12:00.003-07:00

Another experiment. I really like the frayed edges but wonder if it is too big.

Check it out on the coat here.

Wool Coat

2009-10-20T14:36:00.000-07:00

Book: Toddler Boys and Girls clothes

Size: 80 cm

Fabric: Felted wool recycled from a men's sweater, jersey sweatshirt fabric

There was not enough wool for the hood so I added the collar from the bottom ribbing of the original sweater and made a detachable hood out of the same lining fabric. To save time I attached snaps instead of buttons but wish I would have added grosgrain ribbon to help secure the snaps - even felted the wool may be too delicate for metal snaps.

Jumper blouse combo

2009-10-20T11:02:00.001-07:00

I wasn't too excited about these pieces when they were first posted but have since changed my mind after their first wear.

Layered puff-sleeved T

2009-10-20T08:15:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Milimili Girl's T-shir set

the dog appliqué pattern is from a quilt book, White Design - Simple Quilt

Size: 130

Fabric: Navy with white dots from Fabric Fairy, and white sleeves from Alison.

refashioned sweater T

2009-10-19T09:03:00.000-07:00

Book: Toddler Boys and Girls Clothes

Size: 80 cm

Fabric: Felted men's sweater, recycled Brooks Brothers button down

This is the same pattern I used for this T.

I should have drafted the size 90 cm though because the sweater and lining added extra bulk. The original pattern did not include a lining but I added it because I wasn't sure how itchy the wool would be, it also adds a bit of style.

First Flowers

2009-10-18T20:18:00.003-07:00

Book: Flower Book

Fabric: Wool from an old wool coat

I had to tell myself this is an art not a science as I flipped through pages of Japanese text, all I had were pictures to guide me. Next time Marie' and I plan a visit she can fill me in on the nitty gritty secrets of fabric flower making. Until then I will have fun experimenting. These two where made for my daughter's winter coat and bonnet.

Even better on

2009-10-15T09:02:00.003-07:00

Marie' and I have been debating whether it is better to post the clothes on models or just alone. On their own you are able to see more of the construction and design details but they are so much cuter modeled.

Here is the ruffle dress.

refashioned baby T's

2009-10-14T14:42:00.001-07:00

Book: Baby lockstitch Book

Size: 90 cm

Fabric: Old cotton turtle necks

This is a bit slimmer than the Kimono T I made last Spring. It was very cold last week so it is two layers sewn together for extra warmth. The original pattern called for ribbing around the neck but I did a binding and also added the pocket and elbow patches.

Smock Dress and leggings

2009-10-13T12:53:00.000-07:00

I finished another school outfit early this morning. My sewing area is right next to our workout room, and it was too hard to resist putting elastic in the leggings to finish up this outfit after my workout.

Smock dress

Pattern: style "g" of Mom and Girl Matching Clothes

Size: 130

Fabric: Japanese lawn from Hobbyla Hobbyle

I took out about 4 inches off the width because I didn't have enough fabric, and also added a waist band. I would make this dress as full as the pattern is for little girls, but I think the slimmer style is a better look for older girls.

Leggings

Pattern: Everyday bottoms

Size: 130

Fabric: Cotton Lycra from a fabric store in Salt Lake City (Thank you for getting it, Alison!)

The length is in between the two styles of leggings they have in the book. I added some ruffles at the bottom.

pleated denim skirt and leggings

2009-10-08T14:11:00.000-07:00

I am hoping the leggings will keep those legs warm and extend the wearable time into the early winter. I used cotton interlock for them, and they are a bit snug around the thighs. I have a few more pairs cut out using cotton lycra, and that should work better with it's extra stretch.

Patterns:

skirt - Everyday Girl Clothes, style 29, size 130 (The book only goes up to 120, so I scaled it up.)

leggings - Everyday Bottoms, style X

Fabric:

skirt - denim from NPS Store in Salt Lake City

leggings - cotton interlock from Fabric Fairy

Putting it all together

2009-10-05T22:41:00.001-07:00

Clothes look better on models and in action - here they are the peasant T's, skinny jeans, and smock tops.

smock tops

2009-10-05T22:34:00.000-07:00

Book: Natural layered Style

Size: 100 cm, 110 cm

Fabric: vintage cotton print and lace (picked up at a yard sale)

I wish I could say this was a quick and fun pattern to sew up but it certainly had its kinks. It was too wide and I ended up adding additional tucks in the front and a inverted pleat at CB. This made them a bit puffy and younger sister commented that she looked like she had a baby in her tummy just like me.

Skinny Jeans

2009-10-05T22:27:00.000-07:00

Book: Natural Layered Style Clothes

Size: 100 cm, 110 cm

Fabric: A cotton poly knit that Marie' brought back from Japan

Marie' reported that these children's knit skinny jeans were everywhere in Japan this summer. The original pattern did not include pockets but after browsing several other Japanese sewing blogs I was inspired to add a bit more to the jeans including the tabs with antique copper snaps. The girls love pockets but they sometimes lead to trouble - after a few hours I finally found my cell phone tucked deep below one of these snapped tabs.

Peasant T's

2009-10-05T22:17:00.000-07:00

These long sleeve T's were drafted off a basic Japanese T-shirt pattern. The fabric is an organic cotton knit from near sea naturals. This was my first attempt using the new binding attachment for my Janome coverpro and I would like to add the process brought about both tears of frustration and tears of joy.

Tunic and Leggings II

2009-09-25T21:44:00.001-07:00

Book: Everyday Girl Clothes style #4, Everyday Bottoms style X

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: Cotton Flannel Gingham, Cotton rib knit

Here is the pink version. Nothing more to add from the previous post except I think the leggings would look better with a different shoe. But the girls insist on wearing their "cowboy boots" whenever they go to This is the Place.

Tunic and Leggings

2009-09-25T21:27:00.003-07:00

Book: Everyday Girl Clothes style #4, Everyday bottoms style X

Size: 90 cm

Fabric: Cotton flannel gingham, rib knit

I love this Holly Hobby look on the girls - it keeps them little for now at least.

I didn't get a good picture of the leggings but I used the same yoga pants pattern as these pants except I cut down the bottom flare so now they are more of a legging. The bottoms were finished with the ruffle technique that was suggested for style A in the same book. Basically it is 5 rows of rolled hem with my differential feed setting set to 2. I always forget the rolled hem setting so here is a good reminder. I'm still struggling with the fact that this pattern uses the same crotch curve for front and back. I've decided my girls have a bit more flesh on their behinds than the average Japanese child. To make up for it I just cut down the 1.5" from center front then gradually tapered it up to center back, this gave me more length in the back so the waist would stay even around the tummy.

One more funny thing about the leggings. I measured the girls for elastic right after they both ate a huge bowl of lentils. Needless to say the waist may be a bit big on an average day.

Ruffle dress

2009-09-23T13:15:00.001-07:00

Book: Everyday girl clothes

Size: 110 cm

Fabric: Kaffe Fassett cotton

This may be my favorite thing I've sewn this season. The hardest part was matching up the plaid but other than that it was quick to sew up. I waiting for the girls to model their clothes because there is always a high chance of damage even after a 5 min wear.

Jumpers

2009-09-23T13:01:00.001-07:00

Book: Everyday girl clothes

Size: 90 cm, 100 cm

Fabric: Corduroy

These are quite basic and remind me of something I might have worn growing up in the 80's.

The bodice is lined with the same cotton used for the blouses and I have definite regret about purchasing the corduroy for $2 a yard at Joann's - it is stiff, scratchy and shares the same properties as a lint brush. Next time I'll order from Carol Harris, she always has nice stuff.

These almost seem to basic for me so I'm working on making the right flower pin or hair clip to give it a modern touch.

Japanese craft books in English!

2009-09-21T17:31:00.000-07:00

I just saw these books today on the progressive pioneer. This is one give away I would really like - I can never get enough of craft/sewing books. Check them out at make good books.

For anyone with a bit of sewing experience a translated book is not essential, but it may be a good place to start out for the intimidated.

There have been a few questions regarding the sources for our books. My favorite seller is Simply Pretty Bead books on ebay. You may also find them on Etsy or various craft sites such as super buzzy.

Peter pan blouse

2009-09-21T17:18:00.000-07:00

Book: Everyday Girl Clothes, style #10

Size: 90 cm, 100 cm

Fabric: Japanese cotton print from Piper's

This is a great basic for little girls. The only trouble I had was with the collar. I can't stand when any collar flips up so I took the time to trim 1/8" from the under collar before sewing top and bottom together. I think 1/8" was too much because I had a hard time smoothing out the purple one. The pink was done second and this time I only trimmed a little more than 1/16" and that was perfect. Here are some more tips on sewing a peter pan collar.

Turtlenecks

2009-09-20T21:42:00.000-07:00

Book: Everyday Girl Clothes, style #30

Size: 90 cm, 100 cm

Fabric: cotton Lycra (pink), cotton rib knit (purple)

These were super quick and easy to sew up. I was a bit nervous about the fit over the head but it wasn't a problem. I also loved the fit through the sleeves and torso - this is a basic I'll be sure to whip up again and again.

Prairie Dresses

2009-09-12T18:14:00.000-07:00

Book: Natural Layered Style Clothes

Size: 100 cm, 110 cm

Fabric: Floral linen, Cotton print (both Japanese import fabrics)

Another set of quick and fun to sew dresses. I don't have much else to add except I thought it was odd that the button closure was designed left over right I did it that way because I was sewing late and didn't think twice about it until I put the buttons on. I'm also a bit intrigued by this new prairie trend but you can read more about that here.

Ruffle collar Dresses

2009-08-27T14:23:00.003-07:00

Book: Everyday Girl Clothes

Size: 100 cm, 90 cm

Fabric: Robert Kaufman solid cotton

Marie' picked this book up for me while she was in Japan and I think I want to make everything in it. There was some question about what size to trace for the two girls but after doing a quick muslin I found this book runs bigger than some of the others.

These dresses were intended as play dresses for fall/winter but I'm afraid the quilting cotton I used may not be substantial enough. I may have to make an under slip when the weather turns. I do love the colors though.

The original design suggests using lace trim on the pockets but I had trouble finding a good match. Instead I got a wing needle and used a decorative stitch. I'm happy how that turned out and will try to use my wing needle on a few more projects since I spent $5 on it.

Everyday Girl Clothes

2009-08-27T14:07:00.001-07:00

30 patterns size 90 cm - 120 cm

Wool Jumper

2009-08-23T15:43:00.001-07:00

Book: Girly Style Wardrobe

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: Wool from an old Ralph Lauren skirt, Swiss Nelona

Another dress from '08. The jumper you can see was a bit too wide that winter but fit her better this year. The original design did not include the pocket, I just salvaged that from the skirt. The under dress was drafted off the same bodice and sleeve as this dress.

Basic long sleeve dress

2009-08-23T15:36:00.000-07:00

Book: Girly Style Wardrobe

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: woven plaid

This is another dress that was made winter of '08. I love the way this dress fits and have used the bodice and sleeve to draft many of my own designs. The under slip is simply an Old Navy turtle neck that I cut high and attached the bottom of an old nightgown.

Inverted Pleat Dress

2009-08-23T15:24:00.000-07:00

Book: Girly Style Wardrobe

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: woven velveteen

This is a dress that I have seen all over Etsy. I've seen long sleeve versions, wider collars and fun mixes of prints. I used corduroy for the collar and tie and I think it is too long, my poor daughter was tripping over it every time it came untied. I found it a bit tricky to keep the seams clean looking under the arm but that may have just been because of the heavy fabric I used. This was made Jan. '08 and I'd make make it again now except that book is somewhere packed away in our storage unit.

High Yoke Dress

2009-08-23T15:15:00.001-07:00

Book: Girly Style Wardrobe

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: patchwork cotton purchased at Ribes & Casals in Spain

I actually made this one March '08 but forgot to post it. Size 100 cm did not fit my daughter properly until this summer. Still it was a bit too wide and looked more like a nightgown so I over lapped the buttons in the back 1 1/2 " instead of taking apart the whole dress and taking it in. Next time I would pinch out at least 1/2" at CF and CB.

Here's what Marie' made out of the same fabric.

Facing finishing technique

2009-08-19T17:48:00.003-07:00

I can only take so many serged edges. With this technique your finished garment will be just as neat and clean on the inside as the out, and it is really quite simple.

1. Sew the shoulder seams of the facing fabric and interfacing separately, right sides together. Don't press the interfacing seam open if you are using fusible.

2. Right sides together sew the outside edge of the facing fabric to the interfacing. I use a 1/8" seam allowance to eliminate the need for trimming and clipping.

3. Turn right side out.

4. Press down in place.

5. Now ready to attach to the neckline.

Linen skirt for Mom

2009-08-14T16:38:00.001-07:00

Book: Natural Layered Style Clothes, pg 17

Size: There is only one adult size included in this book and I believe it is a M

Fabric: Linen

Please note that if I look a bit top heavy in the first picture it is because I'm just about 18 weeks along with my 7th baby, this skirt was to fill a immediate need for something to fit. That being said I was very shocked that I had to trim 6" total from the skirt. If I was not expecting I'm sure I would have trimmed probably double that. I do like the style and length though and will probably make another.

The one thing I changed was the waist band. I added a separate casing and used the widest elastic I could find 3" because I don't like the way tight narrow elastic feels on a growing belly. In addition I also exposed the bottom seam and left the hem raw because you can do that when fabric is cut on the bias.

Oh yeah, I also love the little hang tags I picked up from The Fabric Fairy.

Pattern tracing supplies

2009-08-04T16:25:00.001-07:00

Here's what I use for pattern tracing:

pencil case - keeps my special tools off limits for kids

Sharpie - labeling ziplock baggies

.5 mm mechanical pencil - the smaller the lead the more accurate the tracing

lead refills

paper scissors

18" clear plastic ruler

clear plastic metric ruler

long metal ruler

accordion file box - stores the ziplock baggies with patterns according to book

zip lock baggies - stores the pattern pieces

small clear ruler - adding seam allowances

seam gauge - adding seam allowances

highlighters - to trace the pattern pieces before tracing (I don't have to do that anymore but that helped a lot when I first got started with Japanese patterns)

post-it tabs - marks the pages in the pattern book for quick reference

medical lab paper - pattern paper for tracing, it is only $5 a roll and very transparent. For fancier patterns I sometimes use Swedish tracing paper but that is over $20 a roll.

Heart Shorts

2009-08-04T16:18:00.001-07:00

Book: Everyday bottoms, style F

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: Cotton rip stop

These are super quick to sew up. I spent the most time on the hearts and used a ruffle instead of fringe like the original design suggests because the rip stop did not allow for a pretty fringe.

Heart Skirt

2009-08-04T16:08:00.000-07:00

Book: Toddler Boys and Girls Clothes, style 24

Size: 95 cm

Fabric: White cotton rip stop

This skirt is so simple I didn't even trace it, it is only one piece so I marked the shape right onto the fabric. The pocket is from the Everyday bottoms book and may not be the right scale for the skirt but this little girl loves it! I also added the bikers and just sandwiched them into the fold over waistband.

A line dress

2009-08-04T15:58:00.001-07:00

Book: Girl on the Beach, style F

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: Textured cotton

The original design does not include pockets but were requested by the wearer.

This was intended for the younger sister but was too big. I finally measured them both yesterday and 1 is 101 cm and the other is 88 cm. I am torn between what sizes to draft for the girls because 100cm and 90 cm fit perfectly right now but I want them to fit for several months. I am drafting a combo of 110/100 and 100/90. I am also taking note of which books run larger.

Drafting our own patterns

2009-07-31T21:21:00.001-07:00

The pattern for these knit dresses are technically not in any of our books. But what I love about Japanese patterns is they offer such simple well drafted basics that you can draft your own designs off of them in just a few extra steps. I use to draft my own off RTW but that takes longer and is riskier (at least for me because I am a bit careless).

Marie' and I drafted this together at our big drafting party back in April. We were copying a simple play dress we saw online at Crewcuts. I can't remember what pattern we started with but any basic bodice and sleeve pattern would work. We cut the bodice high and added 1.5 inches at CB and CF for an inverted pleat, then added a 1.5 inch A-line on the sides. You can see Marie's versions here and here.

The fabrics for both of these dresses were purchased from The Fabric Fairy and also on trip to Barcelona a few years ago.

Yoga pants

2009-07-31T21:12:00.001-07:00

Book: Everyday Bottoms

Size: 100cm

Fabric: Cotton Lycra knit, Cotton interlock knit

Marie' promised they would fit really cute and they do. The yellow bottoms look a bit funny at the waist and crotch because daughter B is wearing a floral diaper cover she is attached to as underwear. These pants are not designed to smooth over any sort of bulk. In fact, I was a bit surprised to see there is only one pattern piece and the front and back share the same crotch curve. Next time I may adjust this depending upon how the seams hold up on these first pairs.

Knit Play dresses

2009-07-30T14:32:00.000-07:00

Book: Children's Lockstitch Book,

Sizes: 100 cm, 110 cm

Fabric: Marimeko print from The Fabric Fairy

This is actually a combination of styles L2, and L4. I cut the bodice higher and cut the skirt narrower. The bodice seems a bit wide so next time I make either style I'll go down a size and add a little length.

Back and gone again

2009-07-20T21:10:00.000-07:00

Marie' has been in Japan. She was home for just two days, just enough time to do laundry and send me this amazing package before heading off to Hawaii.

Her report of a 4 story fabric store in Tokyo, Japanese prints for almost 1/2 the price we can get them here, and unknown pattern companies made me a bit envious. But what a good friend to bring back and send a fashion magazine, cool denim like knit fabric, a clear plastic metric ruler, a corsage book, and yet another little girl's pattern book. She also threw in a box of chocolate filled pretzel sticks that the kids finished before I finished browsing the new books and magazine.

I can't wait to hear more of what she saw and picked up on her trip. This coming fall is sure to be full of some great Japanese sewing.

Oh yeah, I was also really jealous and amused by her explanation of a vegetable man who circled the neighborhood announcing from his truck "fresh vegetables". I think of that every time I hear the ice cream truck here and wonder why I wasn't born in Japan.

Liberty Dress

2009-07-10T18:35:00.000-07:00

Book: Stylish Girl Clothes, style c

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: Liberty print (purchased off ebay for only $8!)

This pattern seemed a bit wide. I actually overlapped the front bodice pieces a bit more than the pattern intended because I didn't like the way it gaped open. I also added ties to the back to create a cleaner silhouette in addition to side patch pockets - but those were just for fun.

If you've never sewn on Liberty fabric I highly recommend it - it is buttery and a joy to work with. Just remember to use a fresh size 70 needle.

Linen pants

2009-07-10T08:50:00.001-07:00

Book: Girl on the Beach, style R

Size: 110 cm

Fabric: Linen

I added 1" to the length of the hem. The crotch length seems too long, I think taking off at least 1/2" at top would allow for better fit. These pants are fuller than I expected so next time I may also pinch out 1/2" down the front and back of the pants as well as add front pockets. It may be that they are just all around too big and will look better next summer (that is if I get the cherry juice stains out).

The 3 tiered pants were made last year. More about them here.

Long sleeve Kimono T

2009-07-02T09:13:00.000-07:00

Book: Toddler Boys and Girls Clothes, #15

Size: 80 cm

Fabric: Old women's T

I also added elbow patches just for fun

2009-07-02T09:10:00.000-07:00

Book: Toddler Boys and Girls Clothes, #46

Size: 80 cm

Fabric: Twill from a pair of men's pants

Cargo Shorts

2009-07-02T09:07:00.000-07:00

Book: Toddler Boys and Girls Clothes

Size: 80 cm

Fabric: recycled from men's shorts

Denim Shorts

2009-07-02T09:01:00.000-07:00

Book: Toddler Boys and Girls Clothes, Style 44

Size: 80 cm

Fabric: Denim

I made a cutting mistake so that is why there is a lower seam on the front.

Kimono T

2009-07-02T08:50:00.000-07:00

Book: Toddler Boys and Girls Clothes, Style 17

Size: 80 cm

Fabric: recycled T from a garage sale

I changed the pocket and also cut the sleeves out of the existing sleeve and cuff from the original adult T. The design does not add a cuff and the pocket is designed to be smaller and placed on the lower right side.

Design List

2009-07-02T08:49:00.001-07:00

I will post a better picture of it when my books are out of storage

2009-07-02T08:44:00.000-07:00

Book: lovely dresses

Size: Small

Fabric: Cotton Lawn

Yuka was a Japanese student at U of U and my mom was her cultural mentor. Yuka was very kind in helping me get through my first day of pattern drafting and I helped her sew this dress.

puffy slips

2009-07-02T08:39:00.000-07:00

Book: Girl's Recital Book

Sizes: 100 cm, 110 cm

Fabric: Bemberg lining, netting, cotton batiste, cotton/lycra, fold over elastic

This is just like Marie' made but I attached them to a fitted tank because their pot bellies couldn't hold the slips up evenly. I highly recommend a gathering attachment for this project.

Hooded T's for the whole family

2009-07-02T08:34:00.000-07:00

Book: Adult Lockstitch, Children's Lockstitch

Size: 90 cm, 100 cm, 110 cm, 120 cm, 130 cm, 140 cm, women's M

Fabric: variety of old T-shirts and knit fabric scraps

I especially love the fit of the women's pattern, it's slim but not too fitted. These are among my children's favorite pieces of clothing - they have begged to wear them even on 90 degree summer days.

Baby's changing quilt

2009-07-01T20:20:00.000-07:00

Book: Good News Handmade Zakka

Fabric: quilting cotton from Amy butler, Heather Ross, and Robin Pandolph

Perfect little quilt to carry around for infants. Now that my boy is 19 months, I keep it in the basket with diapers and wipes for quick changing on the family room carpet.

Batik Dresses

2009-07-01T15:23:00.000-07:00

Book: Children's Lockstitch

Size: 100 cm, 110 cm

Fabric: Batik print from Hawaii

2009-07-01T15:20:00.000-07:00

Book: New York Style Baby

Size: 12 months

Fabric: recycled knit T for the collared shirt, recycled men's pants for the overalls, knit for the lining

Baby Coat

2009-07-01T15:18:00.000-07:00

Book: New York Style Baby

Size: 12 months

Fabric: Denim (outer), Fleece knit (lining)

Girl's Camisole

2009-07-01T11:55:00.000-07:00

Book: Girl's holiday Clothes, style 13

Size: 130

Fabric: patchwork cotton from Spain

As with most styles in this book, this camisole is loose to accommodate pre-teen chubbiness, but has a tie to create some shape. I found the shoulder straps to be on the long side, too, and had to take a few inches in.

2009-07-01T11:34:00.000-07:00

Book: Girl's holiday Clothes, style 26

Size:130

Fabric: sheer sucker from a quilting store in Kauai

The adjustable ties on the sides make this dress a versatile one through the pre-teen to teen years. I changed it to a peter pan collar using another pattern from the dress.

boy shorts

2009-07-01T11:27:00.000-07:00

Book: Everyday Bottoms, style 26

Size: 100

Fabric: Dad's old chino, plaid cotton from Japan

As comfortable as a Mu'umu'u

2009-07-01T11:16:00.000-07:00

Book: Girly Style Wardrobe, style h

Size: 120

Fabric:Denyse Schmidt Quilting Cotton

No snaps, buttons, or zippers. It comes together very fast. Perfect for the summer evenings.

The headband pattern can be found here.

Summer Dress

2009-07-01T11:10:00.000-07:00

Book: Girls Handmade Clothes

Size: 110

Fabric: Amy Butler Quilting Cotton

Another great pattern. The pockets are very cute.

knit top

2009-07-01T11:05:00.000-07:00

Book: Children's Lockstitch Book

Size:120

Fabric: Cotton Lycra from Fabric Fairy

This top runs big. If you are looking for a fit like the ready-made-clothing, make one size smaller.

Elephant Jumper

2009-07-01T08:06:00.000-07:00

Book: Stylish Girl Clothes

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: Vintage knit found at a garage sale (jumper), recycled T-shirt (pants)

Other notes: The original pattern has a separate piece for the bottom of the dress. I cut it as one piece because I did not want to disturb the elephant pattern. I also added the side patch pocket because my daughter would not put it on without a touch of pink.

Pillowcase Nightgowns

2009-07-01T08:02:00.000-07:00

Book: Children's Lockstitch style 9

Size: 90 cm & 100 cm

Fabric: Vintage pillowcases

Other notes: This is actually a dress pattern and is designed with elastic above the waist. Since I was using these as nightgowns I let them just fall from the gathered neckline. This book has seam allowances already included.

Jumper

2009-07-01T07:58:00.000-07:00

Book: Handmade Baby Clothes

Fabric: Linen and Liberty print

Size: 80 cm

Other notes: This is a variation of style K. The original jumper has hand smocking which I was too lazy for. Instead I just pleated the top. I also added a pocket.

Pleated Skirt

2009-07-01T07:54:00.000-07:00

Book: Girly Style Wardrobe

Size: 100

Fabric: Gray Linen, Liberty print for the underskirt

Other notes: The back has enclosed elastic and I had trouble with the transition from the front bias binding to the linen folding over the elastic. Some of the elastic was left exposed on the side seam and was too itching for my daughter, next time I'll be more careful with that step.

Long sleeve Turtle Neck

2009-06-30T23:17:00.000-07:00

Book: Stylish Girl Clothes, view r

Size:130

Fabric: Cotton Lycra from Fabric Fairy

One of those patterns that you want to make over and over with different fabric. Beautiful fit.

Yoke Blouse

2009-06-30T23:08:00.000-07:00

Book: Stylish Girl Clothes, view r

Size: 120

Fabric: Batick- cotton/polly from Hawaii. Floral- cotton from Spain. White- Brooks Brother's Wrinkle free shirt

This blouse is tailored and runs smaller. I recommend using solid fabric for the yoke to fully enjoy the details.

Pencil Skirt

2009-06-30T22:59:00.000-07:00

Front

Back

Book: Stylish Girl Clothes, view s

Size: 120

Fabric: Wool

This was made using my wool pants I never wore. The two seams you see one the top part are the side seams from the pants and don't exist in the pattern.

Petticoat

2009-06-30T22:52:00.001-07:00

Book: Girl's recital Book

Size: 130

Fabric: cotton battiest, nylon netting, polyester lining

This was a beast to sew up, but it is well worth the investment in time and fabric.

Easter Dress

2009-06-30T22:39:00.000-07:00

Book: Girl's Recital Book

Size: 130

Fabric: Wal-Mart mystery (content unknown) fabric. Poly/cotton? The right side had a shiny sheen to it, so

i used the wrong side.

This book is a little tricky, but the result compares to a boutique made, custom fit dress. The book gives you

the basic bodice and sleeve pattern you can trace off of the back side of the dust jacket. Then you make

adjustments using your child's measurements with the help of their diagrams for each dress. You also

have to draft the skirt parts. It took me one evening (about two hours) just to draft the patterns, but again,

my patience was well rewarded.

Bloomers and Blouse

2009-06-30T15:54:00.000-07:00

Blouse

Book: New York Style Kids Clothes

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: Dotted Swiss

Bloomers

Book: Stylish Girl Clothes

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: Gray Linen

Other notes: I also added back patch pockets and made a fake side placket at the bottom cuff with a shell button shaped like a flower

3 tiered pants

2009-06-30T15:47:00.000-07:00

Book: Natural Fall and Winter Clothes

Size: 100 cm

Fabric: Cotton gingham with cotton lace trim